There’s barely a twelve-hour gap between the end of New York’s fashion week and the beginning of London’s. But the two are worlds apart – at least, if you were to go by the evidence of London’s first day. In a country whose future is currently shadowed by the terrifying prospects of a President Trump, New York provided Hunger Games-worthy spectacle (courtesy of Kanye), punkish bad girls(Alexander Wang) and state-of-the-nation Goth (plus Gaga, plus Hillary Clinton t-shirts) at Marc Jacobs.

On the face of it, London’s designers are operating in a far less clouded world. And what they were selling, for the most part, was something far simpler than New York’s apocalyptic angst: clothes. It’s far too early, from the cluster of low-key shows and presentations that constitute Day 1, to draw any overarching themes. So here, for now, are the ten things that stuck out across 24 hours in London, from fizzy Hong Kong decadence to streamlined Puritanism – and from politely traditional catwalk events to foam parties.

New Wave Tailoring

On/Off’s late evening event was far less of a show in the ordinary sense than a “happening” – in the most Warhol sense of the word. While the audience jostled behind two lines of neon pink tape, three designers sent out their wares in an unbroken lineup, looping round the room before staging a final group run-through which quickly disintegrated into a free-for-all dash to the bar. But somewhere in the midst of the chaos, Robert Wun’s sophisticated ombré fabrics and dramatic outerwear layers provided an unexpectedly grown-up pause point.

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