On|Off September 2008

 

On|Off September 2008: Designers - Catwalk during London Fashion Week


Afshin Feiz

Afshin Feiz was born in Surrey, England, before traveling across the Atlantic to live in Vancover, Canada, when his interest in fashion began. Moving to Paris to attend the prestigious fashion school Studio Berçot, he soon began working in the couture houses of John Galliano, Thierry Mugler and Christian Lacroix Haute Couture. Using the knowledge he had gained, he became Director if the Design Studio at Gilles Rosier, before establishing himself at Nina Ricci where, after three years, he had become not only the First Assistant Designer but also the Coordinator of Licenses. In 2004 Feiz set up his own label with business partner Thierry Gillet, and began to show in New York at Olympus Fashion Week. Renowned in Asia, Europe and North America, Afshin Feiz has finally come home to Britain and is looking forward to building on his success of previous seasons at London Fashion Week

Granted 'Visionary Award Winner' for his upcoming collection, Afshin Feiz is one of the hottest tickets this season. 'I'm really looking forward to returning to On|Off this season and presenting the pieces I have always wanted to create; they are ultimately feminine' Afshin Feiz.

Press
Alison Lowe, Felicities Ltd
Alison@felicities.co.uk
07958 718050

Sales
Pavel Morozov
sales@afshinfeiz.com

www.afshinfeiz.com

Bernard Chandran

Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysian designer Bernard Chandran graduated with a Bachelors Degree in Fine Arts from the Paris American Academy and at L’Union Des Chambers Syndicales Parisiennes, Paris. His talent was immediately recognized and even had the exceptional accolade of being the first non-European to win the coveted Silk Cut Young Designers Award and the Open European Contest for Look of the Year 2000 in 1991.

Bernard Chandran trained in Paris, his distinctive style marries the rich cultural heritage of his native Malaysia with more modern and contemporary designs. He was the first designer to revolutionize the traditional Malay ‘Kebayas’ and ‘Kurungs’, turning them into modern, wearable pieces.

After making his mark at home, in January 2004 he opened his first store in Europe located in London, Knightsbridge. In 2006, the designer decided to launch his first Ready-to-Wear collection, Autumn/Winter 2006 at London Fashion Week.  Now with four seasons at LFW behind him, his line is now marketed throughout Europe, Dubai and the Far East.  The designer continues to use Kuala Lumpur as his base to establish and further market the trademark and label of ‘Bernard Chandran’ internationally.

Press
Blow PR
020 7436 9449
portia@blow.co.uk

www.bernardchandran.com

Danielle Scutt

Danielle Scutt  new collection is uncompromisingly fierce. She has shown twice with Fashion East, and some of her signatures, like her red-hot touch with denim, are becoming recognizable.

Her most salable pieces are short knife-pleat denim skirts and the high-waisted, fifties-inflected jeans she's been working on since she left Central Saint Martins. Other dresses in variations on zebra stripes look destined for plenty of magazine editorial shoots.

Press
Mandi Lennard Publicity
+44 (0) 207 729 2770
daniellescutt@ml-pr.com

Sales
info@daniellescutt.com

www.daniellescutt.com

Falguni & Shane Peacock (collaborative show with Rocky S)

Falguni & Shane Peacock love to dress their woman in ultra-feminine and glamorous clothes. The brand is synonomous to high Luxury prêt, resort and eveningwear. The Peacock label focuses on dresses that are dreamy, romantic, youthful with a strong sense of colour, dramatic and makes a style statement.

They like to wrap the female form with fluid silks that blend into animal prints with complex textures in few words slick, chic and glamorous. Embroidery is an integral part of peacock couture and it is used lavishly often incorporating gems and crystals into the extravagant use of diamantes to accentuate necklines with feathers and semiprecious stones.

The peacock label experiments on different fabrics like tweeds, knits, leather, cottons, velvet, tapestry, crepes, satins and chiffons. The label is also known for its unique and exotic prints, the silhouettes are usually graphically created in strong shapes and bright colors, gentle to senses, classic yet very modern. Motifs of flowers, leaves splashed on animal prints detailed with ostrich feathers and ornate beading are used for that ultra luxurious Peacock look.

Press & Sales
Mumtaz Suterwalla
+44 (0)7780 993 635
mumtaz@fu-sion360.com

or

Supriya Bedi
+44 (0)7765 140 540
supriya@fu-sion360.com

www.peacockcouture.com

Felder Felder

Now in their third season, Daniela and Annette Felder first launched their womenswear line FELDER • FELDER whilst studying at the world-renowned Central Saint Martins college in London. Soon after, they were selected by Gen Art to showcase their collection during New York Fashion Week, following their graduation in 2006.  The German twin sisters behind the label swiftly won the attention of the international fashion press with their signature style and developed a strong following from key influentials, including Simon Robins of Russian Vogue and photographers such as Lorenzo Agius, who has given great support.

Their first show gained much respect and with the iconic Patti Wilson styling the show the label was quickly admired by top buyers including Selfridges and Browns Focus who both stock the label. Selfridges confirmed their support by featuring Felder Felder in two of their window displays for the Spring Summer 2008 season.

The label’s collections feature dramatic dresses in finest silks and chiffon finished and embellished with contrasting details using leather, metal and embroidery. The directional yet feminine silhouette is toughened with chunky knitwear and a range of bold accessories. For SS09, Daniela and Annette have secured the New Gen / Topshop sponsorship for the exhibition stands during London Fashion Week which will be the second season they have collaborated with the scheme.

Press:
Nicola Griffin
Modus Publicity / Modus Dowal Walker
+44 (0)20 7331 1433
f: +44 (0)20 7331 1444

www.felderfelder.com

Jasper Conran

As one of the UK’s leading fashion designers with a successful career spanning over 20 years, Jasper Conran is known as an authority on British style and tailoring. His signature aesthetic mixes classic British elegance with a cheeky irreverent attitude that has been applied across designs for menswear, womenswear, fragrance, furniture and homeware.

Educated at Bryanston and Parson School of Art & Design in New York, Jasper Conran’s first collection was designed for Henri Bendel New York. In 1979, aged just 19, Jasper Conran designed his first collection under his own name. The following year he was elected to the London Designer collections. With two Fil d'Or International Linen awards in 1982 and 1983 and by now an internationally established label, Jasper Conran was awarded British Designer of the Year in 1986 and the Fashion Group of America award the following year.

 It was his association with the Debenhams store group and his exclusive J Line womenswear collection. Today that association has expanded to include jeans, accessories & hosiery, homeware, bridalwear, childrenswear, lingerie and most recently, menswear.

The Jasper Conran flagship store opened in February 2005 in a four-story Georgian home in London’s Mayfair. The store features all the Jasper Conran high-end collections – along with an exclusive made-to-order furniture line – under one roof.

Press
Tom Scott
Tel: 0207 292 9080
Email: tom.scott@jasperconran.com

www.jasperconran.com

Josh Goot

Born in Sydney in 1980, he began a Media Art & Production degree at Sydney’s University of Technology in 1999. Spending time in New York later that year, Josh decided that his interest in media and communication would manifest through fashion design.

In late 2004, his eponymous label was born. In April 2005, Josh’s debut collection won him the Tiffany & Co. Young Designer of the Year Award in Australia. Judges were impressed by the clever concept, clean aesthetic and the future smart ideology conveyed in the line. The following season saw a marked evolution in the look and established Goot as a new force in Australian fashion.

International interest followed. In July 2005, the label featured on the cover of Womens Wear Daily. In late 2005 a partnership was forged with Australian Wool Innovation. Josh collaborates in areas of textile technology to develop unique fabrics. The relationship aims to reinforce the relevance of Australian Merino Wool in the clothes of today and tomorrow.

Josh Goot made his debut at New York Fashion Week in September 2006 by unveiling his  Spring/Summer 2007 ready-to-wear collection and has since returned to the Big Apple for a further two seasons,  Autumn/Winter 2007/08, and most recently  Spring/Summer 2008.

Press & Sales
Karla Newton
0207 749 4510
Karla@relativepr.com

www.joshgoot.com

JSmith Esquire

Justin Smith was born in Exeter 1978 and worked for five years at Toni & Guy, becoming Creative Director from 1998 to 2002. In 2000 he established his own very successful, exclusive hairdressing salon in London's Soho, known as And People Like Us.

Justin began designing and making hats in 2000 while undertaking part-time millinery training. In 2005 he earned a distinction on the HNC Millinery course at Kensington and Chelsea College and in June 2007, completed a two-year MA in Millinery from London's Royal College of Art, following which his graduation show earned considerable critical and press attention.

Since graduating, Justin has been awarded the iD styling award and the Maria Louisa award at ITS6. With New Generation sponsorship from the British Fashion Council, he presented his first independent collection during London Fashion Week at On/Off, The Royal Academy Of Arts in February 2008. His new collection for Spring Summer 2009 will premier in the autumn during London Fashion Week.

For all press, buyers and enquiries please contact:
www.jsmithesquire.com
Justin@jsmithesquire.com
+44 (0)7788 807 563

Kaviar Gauche

In November 2003 after graduating at Esmod Berlin and working for Vivienne Westwood, the duo formed by Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler launched their own clothing and accessories label: Kaviar Gauche. Their collections are feminine; the perfect combination of layers and materials resulting in sophisticated yet avant garde clothes.

Their S/S collection was called Pixelromance, and took inspiration from the opposing themes of nature and technique. The natural side is reflected through elements like scales and flowers, while the technical side comes through in pixels and mirrors," says Kuhl.

Feminine without being girly, edgy but still cool for work- Kaviar Gauche succeeds in tasks too many others fail. The girls behind this Berlin-based label have been working on both bags and clothes from Day 1, allowing the two categories to cross-fertilise and create a unique design language.

Sales & Press Germany:
Agentur K
Siegesstrasse, 30 | 80802 Munich
Contact: Melanie Bauer
Tel. +49 (0)89 3838720
mbauer.agenturk@pr-klemann.com

Sales International:
Kaviar gauche
Torstrasse, 56 | 10119 Berlin
Contact: Roberta Pellizzaro
Tel. +49 (0)30 44045430
roberta.pellizzaro@kaviargauche.com

Press International:
Goodley PR
41 Dover Street | W1S 4NS London
Contact: Mrs. Kara Goodley
Tel. +44 (0)20 74939600
kara.goodley@goodleypr.co.uk

www.kaviargauche.com

Louise Amstrup

Louise Amstrup returns for the second season at On|Off. The Danish born womenswear designer graduated from Akademie Modedesign. In 2003 she trained with Alexander McQueen, Sofia Kokosalaki and Jonathan Saunders before setting up her own label “Louise Amstrup” in 2006. Louise’s signiture style is a series of contridrictions fusing feminine and powerful elements together with delicate silks, soft chiffons, cottons and wools.

For AW08 Louise has taken inspiration from film director, David Lynch and the modernist artist Man Ray. Louise has interpretated the surreal representation of the mysterious women in David Lynch’s films, from Rita the femme fatale in Mulholland Drive.

The personalities of David Lynche’s women have a manifold of different layers to create the mystery, and many of the garments are constructed of complex panelling to indicate this. To drag out the other side of what seems intact, Louise Amstrup has worked with decolouring parts of her materials to create this feeling of what lies beneath.

Press
Sarah Sullivan at Cube
T:+44 (0)20 7242 5483
F: +44 (0)20 7242 5454
E: ssullivan@cubecompany.com

Sales
Modehuslondon
Kistine Petersen & Claire Smith
F:+44 (0) 77 7176 3080
E: info@modehuslondon.com

www.louise-amstrup.com

On|Off presents.

Rozalb de Mura, Mark Fast, Alexander Koutny

Rozalb De Mura (designer Olah Gyarfas)

Rozalb de Mura is an up-market fashion label created in Romania. Launched at the beginning of 2006, it has already drawn professionals and avant-garde fashionistas from Romania and abroad.

Moreover, Rozalb de Mura label is developing as a multidisciplinary platform that commissions and supports unexpected collaborations between fashion designers, visual artists, musicians and writers, such as Tobias Stenberg, Olivia Plender, Constantin Luser, Liste Noire group, etc.

In Olah Gyarfas’s world, Hungarian deliciously mingles with Romanian words, reality with fiction, masculine with feminine, minimalism with a passion for details and tan sessions with an icy walk to St. Ana Lake.

A scholarship at University of Applied Arts in Budapest, “Designmai” Festival in Berlin, Romanian Fashion Week and Iast Fashion Week and here he is, tall, a slender, nonchalantly urban silhouette, an exotic presence in any metropolis in the world, all the more in the quiet Transylvanian town of Miercurea Ciuc. Here, in the chocolate-brown studio, the severe snap of the sewing machines mark the preparation of the collections signed by Olah Gyarfas for Rozalb de Mura.

In the summer of 2006, Unit F büro für mode (Vienna), the Austrian organization that promoted young avant-garde designers like Petar Petrov and Wendy & Jim awarded him the Kontakt Erste Bank Award for the most creative Eastern European fashion designer. 2007 brought the first important business meetings with the international market, and the positive echoes following Stockholm and Paris fashion fairs enflamed the designer’s creativity.

Rozalb de Mura STORE
9 – 11, Selari str (Lipscani area), Curtea Sticlarilor, 1st floor, sector 3, Bucharest
00 4 021 311 62 15 / 00 4 0723 172 850
www.rozalbdemura.ro

 

Mark Fast

Mark Fast is 27 years old, Canadian born knitwear designer, from the city of Winnipeg. He grew up in the countryside along a highway next to a forest. This minimal peaceful aesthetic forced him to imagine more, what it would be like, beyond the barricade of Canada. Finding London freed his creativity at last.

He has been studying at Central St. Martins for the last 5 years. He did his BA there and currently finished his MA this last February. Over the years he has created knitwear for Bora Aksu for 3 seasons.

He loves to knit everything by hand on a domestic machine that he has at his studio. He is inspired by the endless possibilities of lycra yarns and how they can create areas of tension but also areas of volume over the body by mixing in viscoses, angoras or wools . Mark also loves how old pieces of historical costume and objects can be translated into a contemporary aesthetic. His work is formed onto the body as he knits, so it is body-conscious, but this time he’s created new ways to sculpt different volumes over the body by using different yarns and stitch techniques. He’s always fond of body-conscious knitwear but he is moving into different shapes and volumes at the moment, which is also very exciting. He believes that in fashion these days there is a growing attention to craftsmanship, as opposed to quick-fix disposable fashion. He is focussing on timeless classics.

www.markfast.net

Alexander Koutny

After studying patternmaking, Koutny launched a ready-to-wear line of simple, mostly black menswear, later adding womenswear. Koutny moved to London where he was inspired by the cutting-edge fashion design around him. He has produced intricate and often elaborate one-off pieces. In September 07, Koutny attended the South African Fashion Week as the headline designer where he held a guest workshop. Now based in New York, Koutny has released his second collection Temporal Folds, a fitting continuation from Graphica Immateria.

Graphica Immateria is a small focused collection of darkly organic pieces. It is inspired by power lines and their supportive pylons, the structures that support these rudimentary mechanical devices that connect human beings, generating expectations for future possibilities. Foreboding yet somehow comforting, they repeat and remind us of where we may go and how that hardly differs from where we may have been.

While exploring a structural volumous silhouette, Koutny has introduced contradictions in textured figure clinging pieces as well as structured oppositional pleated elements that serve as intrusive yet seductively willful forms. Temporal Folds is an expression of Koutny’s observations and musings of our increasingly relativistic relationship to time.

Koutny is now poised to take his brand to the European market with a return to London with the opportunity to present at On|Off, and representation in Agentur V Showroom in Paris for the 08/09 Spring Summer Season.

www.alexanderkoutny.com

Reem

Iraqi born, and living in London since her teens. Reem Alasadi has approached the fashion scene with her somewhat unquenchable drive and passion for design.

Her creations always have their own unique signature to them, a personality of their own that seems to enhance the wearer. Making a statement that the wearer is a "free thinker", the opposite to the corporate branding of a logo. To completely understand her work, one must not be governed by conventional thinking & doctrine. This is an exhilarating portrayal of fashion in the 21st century.

Reem previously sold top of the range vintage clothing 13 years ago in Notting Hill. Her stall is at Portobello road market, on the junction of Acklam road. During this time she would practice her flair for displaying classic pieces restyled thus widening the appeal of the garment to more than just collectors of vintage fashion.

Due to her desire for creation, Reem is renowned for her wildly eclectic style. This combined with a growing underground reputation. It was only a matter of time before several British designers would introduce themselves to her, with the intention of establishing a working relationship. The likes of John Richmond, Robert Carey Williams, and Stella McCartney, have all courted her services & this has led to highly successful collaborations.

“My fascination for clothes started when I was a teenager. I was offered a place at St Martins School of art, in London, but instead I opted to teach myself to pattern cut and sew by unpicking damaged vintage pieces apart and sewing them back together again. In time, I would start to sell my own customised vintage pieces on my stall. Eventually designers started to take a keen interest in my work. I was approached by John Richmond to style his show in Milan, An offer I did not refuse!” Reem Alasadi

London Press & Sales
Greenhouse PR
2F 17-19 Lever Street, London EC1 V 3QU
+44 (0) 774 845 3151

reemalasadi.com

Rocky S (collaborative show with Falguni & Shane Peacock)

Rocky S has always been a trendsetter in India and comes to London for Fashion Week having created a positively distinctive outlook for western wear.

Rocky S has been an integral part of the Indian fashion industry since the very onset. He is a very well established name in India and has earned himself the success and visibility that many of his contemporaries would envy him for.

He has made his mark in the Indian film industry as a costumier and many established actors and actresses would attribute their chic sense of fashion style to him. However he chose not to restrict himself only to films and successfully ventured into various other fragments of the fashion world.

He has a carved a niche for himself in Indian couture, for men and women. His foray into kids has been challenging yet is slowly but steadily bringing about a positive fashion change in the way kids wear is perceived.

His creative instincts have led him into various other facets, besides clothes, like home furnishing, perfumes, bags and other accessories. But these are not the only feathers in his hat as he feels has a long way to go. He is always game for experimenting and is looking forward to explore many other parts of the industry. He is further diversifying his label and is launching shoes, jewellery and eye wear.

For Rocky S this is just the beginning…

Press & Sales
Mumtaz Suterwalla
+44 (0)7780 993 635
mumtaz@fu-sion360.com

or

Supriya Bedi
+44 (0)7765 140 540
supriya@fu-sion360.com

Romina Karamanea

Romina KaramaneaAfter graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design with a post graduate degree in innovative pattern cutting, Romina has worked with leading designers such as Clements Ribeiro, Robert Cary-Williams, and Preen.

Romina's designs impressed style icons like Isabella Blow (British Tatler, Vogue), Franca Sozanni (Italian Vogue) and Cameron Silver( Decades, Dover Street Market).

Romina Karamanea was recently chosen to be included in three international design books that cover contemporary design such as 100 NEW DESIGNERS by Lawrence King, which is due to launch on September 2008. Romina and her team have produced a short film, requested by the ground - breaking fashion photographer Nick Knight, (www.SHOWSTUDIO.com) which encapsulates the brand’s aesthetic.

Romina has been interviewed by several prestigious publications including Financial Times, LA Times, WWD, Vogue and Surface.

www.rominakaramanea.com

Sado

Carlotta Gherzi and co-designer Evan Del Franco are one of the new breed of London fashion designer labels. This year SADO’  launch their spring/summer 2008 collection-inspired by two great creative women of twentieth century, Pamela Morrison, the late great 1970's Doors lead signer Jim Morrison's wife and 1920's painter Tamara Lempicka that mixes fashion, art and music.

The collection is pure female indulgence, with streamline silhouettes that have been created to flatter a women’s body, in bright seductive prints on silk chiffon, satin and jersey, most garments are cut on the bias to caress the female form. SADO’ label, which literary translated means, "keep working and protecting what you are working for”.

Press
sado_pr@sadofashion.com  | 0207 039 0189

Sales
sado@sadofashion.com

www.sadofashion.com

Sinha Stanic

Croatian-born Aleksandar Stanic and British-born Fiona Sinha met while studying at Central St Martin’s and formed their company in 2004. They were highly acclaimed runners up in the first Fashion Fringe initiative and were immediately signed by the prestigious luxury Italian group Aeffe for a four year contract for sales, production and distribution. Their stockist line-up is growing gratifyingly fast. Their clothes are beautifully cut with an easy sophistication that is entirely modern and relaxed.  This season their main collection will be based on longer, looser, draped silhouettes with an almost ‘grungey’ look. They are also launching a new collection of jersey dresses called‘Sinha-Stanic Stretch’ at much lower price points that will be available three times a year.

Press
Narmin Mohammadi: narminm@moduspublicity.com
020 7331 1436
Rachel@9pr.com

Sales
sales@easternblock.co.uk | 0207 435 2727

www.sinhastanic.com